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Beside The Empty Seat*

A Somewhat Personal and Very Non-objective View of Life In Japan


ISSUE: September/October 2004

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Tip of the Month and Where-to-Go!

This Month's Topics:

  1. When is a deserter not a deserter? When he's an abductee

  2. Japan: Love your products but not your people!

  3. Confession is good for the soul -- if timed right!

  4. Driving laws are toughened but will anyone notice?

  5. Don't worry, but there's a convicted killer strolling around!

  6. Crime File

  7. Japan's petrol might soon be realistically priced!

  8. With neighbours like ours, we need all the help we can get!

  9. New London ambassador rewarded for removing Tanaka-san

  10. The law be damn'd, let's go and drown some monkeys!

  11. Say That Again

  12. Who can we upset next? How about Russia?

  13. Japan as a suitable sanctuary for refugees -- not!

  14. The incredible sinking airport sinks further -- into debt!

  15. Terrorism? Dangerous, yes, but not worth preparing for!

  16. Child killer dies and outsiders protest!

Dedicated Japan watchers might remember two years ago when Japan had an outspoken lady named Mrs Makiko Tanaka as Foreign Minister, and they might also recall the way she was sacked. Well, one of the civil servants involved in her sacking has just been appointed  Japan's ambassador to the Court of St James -- meaning London! What's more, according to a story I read in Britain's Telegraph newspaper, some folk are not happy about it. First off, however, let me give you some background.  Yoshiji Nogami was deputy foreign minister, the number 1 bureaucrat, when Mrs Tanaka revealed that the Foreign Ministry was riddled with financial corruption, which led to several prosecutions. Now I must point out that Mr Nogami was not personally accused of any wrongdoing, but when it was shown that his bureaucrats had established a secret fund from public money that they drew on for private purposes, such as staying in top hotels or even buying racehorses and a luxury Tokyo apartment, the boss was naturally blamed. Then came a scandal about the money allocated for the Okinawa Summit in 2000, where Mr Nogami was in charge of the funding. This led to a very public clash with Mrs Tanaka, after which he was sacked, shortly followed by her also being sacked by prime minister Junichiro Koizumi. She fought back by quitting from the ruling party and being elected as an independent. Mr Nogami's path back to power seems to have been a lot easier. Some reports here have speculated that Mr Nogami has been given one of the ministry's most comfortable and prestigious posts as a reward for getting rid of Mrs Tanaka. Such a posting, coming less than 3 years after his supposed demotion, seems to suggest that the allegedly elitist and corrupt ministry is getting "up to its old tricks" again. One opposition party official was quoted as saying that "The public will look in scorn on this appointment." The Ministry has retaliated by showing that Mr Nogami speaks excellent English, has been working as a minister in the Japanese embassy in London since his dismissal (and as a visiting fellow at the Royal Institute of International Affairs), and even has a British wife. Nonetheless, whether or not he is suitable for the job, the fact remains that his method of getting it does suggest that someone should go through the Foreign Ministry with a damn'd big brush, and strive to bring the corrupt little gnomes within into the 21st century. 

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Japanese folk might not eat so many unusual animals as some of their Asian neighbours, but don't get the wrong idea. This country is no animal lover's paradise -- far from it! The idea of pets is a relatively new one here and so generally, animals are looked upon as being useful or abandoned. This harsh rule includes monkeys and so Japanese TV often features clips of performing monkeys, all clothed in a suitably cute manner and showing justified fear of their 'trainer'. However, some monkeys suffer even worse fates. This was highlighted by a report from Shirahama township in Wakayama Prefecture that some local officials reacted to reports that wild monkeys were frightening children and eating produce by drowning about 20 of the poor creatures. Sporting as this may seem to some, it inconveniently violates the Wildlife Protection and Hunting Law, as they had acted without licensed hunters. Under this law, unlicensed hunting carries a fine of up to ¥1 million (app. US$9,000) or one year imprisonment. It seems that members of the local tourism association and other town officials have admitted to killing the monkeys by first trapping them in cages and then drowning them. Obviously true sportsmen! The reason the area has such monkeys is that a nearby nature park, opened in 1954, began artificially breeding wild monkeys in 1964. However, the park was closed in November 2001 after the monkeys began attacking humans. Knowing the way such 'parks' treat their animals, I can't say that I blame them! Anyway, they may have closed the park but about 80 monkeys remain living in the park's vicinity. One day, I should like to open a new kind of nature park, filled with those who mistreat animals, all chained and treated by their own standards. I for one would gladly pay to see such a thing!

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Say That Again . . .

I remember a certain French lady Prime Minister comparing the Japanese with ants, the way they work and live. Well, the days when Japanese people worked incredible hours for scant reward are long over -- aren't they? Seems not, for read this quotation from a 34-year-old bank worker:
"
I work from 8 a.m. to midnight every day. My overtime is 300 hours each month, and I can take only one holiday in six months."
He was speaking to the Japan Association of Labour Lawyers, who report that complaints about unpaid overtime are on the rise.

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There was once a ridiculous survey which showed that around 90% of Japanese consider themselves middle class. Well, the recent economic downturn, which seems to have abated a little, made it hard to keep up such pretensions, which led to the very worrying situation described by Journalist Akihiro Otani:
" To keep up our middle-class illusions we rely on loan sharks. One quarter of the work force, 16 million people, borrow from consumer-loan companies."
 It seems that the Japanese hate to think of themselves as poor, so they borrow. Being in debt isn't poor?

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The government is always complaining about the falling birth-rate. Well, maybe we have found one more reason for this, as explained by a 31-year-old technician:
"Love is predictable. Soccer's more interesting."
Seems that for some salarymen, even the soporific J-League is preferable to love-making. I wonder if that's related to how many Japanese ladies date/marry foreigners?

&

Talking of how fickle romance can be, we recently heard about it from an unusual point of view, namely, a fortune-teller. Terutsugu Eguma is 78 years old and tells fortunes in the Ginza. Reflecting on women customers who often ask if they'll meet Mr Right, she said: 
"They come quite often for the three months or so that the relationship lasts. Then you don't see them again until they find someone else."

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One of the many symptoms of Japan's inability to accept that they lost the Pacific War is the way the government continually complains about a group of inconsequential little islands of the north-east coast of Hokkaido. These islands, known here as Kunashiri, Etorofu and Shikotan, and the Habomai islet group and as the Southern Kurils in Russia, were once Japanese, but just as Japan gained Okinawa by conquest, so the USSR gained these islands after their remarkably short and opportunist war against Japan in the summer of 1945. Just as Japan refuses to give up Okinawa, so Moscow is unwilling to give up those islands, and this irritates the hell out of certain right-wing Japanese, such as the Tokyo Governor and our beloved Prime Minister. However, not content with annoying our Asian neighbours by visiting the Yasukuni shrine, Mr Koizumi decided to upset the Russians by 'window shopping' around the Russian-held islands, sailing from the eastern Hokkaido city of Nemuro to take a look at what he can't visit! This naturally upset Russia and has not exactly helped the on again, off again territorial talks with Moscow. One immediate reaction to this foolishness was an announcement by Russian President Vladimir Putin that he was considering postponing his official visit to Japan scheduled for next February. The Izvestia newspaper quoted a Russian diplomat in Tokyo as saying that as the Japanese government had not taken seriously Moscow's warning regarding Koizumi's trip, Putin's trip would be meaningless if there were any kind of demonstrations calling for the return of the islands. So why did he do it? Maybe he wasn't so foolish, for it was reported shortly after this inane trip that the approval rating for his Cabinet had risen from a record low of 40% in July to 42%. Revealing, huh? But about what the Russian inhabitants of those wind-swept islands? After all, it is these isolated folk who form an interesting aspect of the dispute. These people have lived on the islands for many years and so if Japan ever succeeds in prying the rocks from Russia's grasp, Tokyo will have two choices. They can either retain their much vaunted 'homogeneity' by expelling all these people (not very PC but appealing to many here), or they can instantly acquire 17,000 new Caucasian citizens, which must seem an unbearable price to pay for such territory! Life is filled with tough decisions, isn't it?

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Imagine the situation. You live in a place where the authorities treat your ethnic group with much less than rigid fairness, and so you flee overseas to seek asylum. The government of the place where you seek sanctuary decides to check on your story by asking your inequitable government to help verify your complaint,  thereby giving them ready access to what they might consider disloyal or even criminal elements. Does that sound far-fetched? Sadly, it isn't -- it's just Japan! This completely insane sort of bureaucracy came to light by way of a report from Amnesty International, criticizing Tokyo's handling of Kurdish refugees naive enough to seek sanctuary in Japan. This report revealed the policy of sending Justice Ministry officials (immigration matters come under the Justice Ministry here) to investigate the families of the refugees with the help of the Turkish authorities. As Amnesty rightly points out, this idiotic idea not only endangers the families of the refugees, but also makes it extra dangerous for the refugees themselves to return home if their application for asylum is rejected, as it so often is. The Justice Ministry defended its actions by saying that it had to inspect the asylum seekers' living conditions to make sure they were not in Japan merely to earn money. Some might say that the bureaucrats are merely trying to deter any refugee from seeking help in Japan. Myself, I think it is just natures way of punishing anyone gullible enough to expect the milk of human kindness to flow with the Japanese bureaucracy! 

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Have you ever experienced Japan's famous sinking airport near Osaka? I refer, of course, to the Kansai International Airport, which has just marked its 10th anniversary. However, not only is the airport (built on a man-made island off Osaka Bay) literally sinking, it is also tumbling deeper into debt, with liabilities exceeding 1 trillion yen! What's more, its chances of getting out of this situation seem unlikely, with the number of international flight passengers falling to a record-low level. To celebrate the recent anniversary, the president of the airport company spoke of making Kansai more "convenient and customer-oriented." However, this also seems unlikely. One disgruntled customer recently referred to it as being "arguably the worst airport in Asia," with no facilities open at nighttime, one less than attractive book and souvenir shop, and restaurants that close at 21:30. What's more, should you be dazzled by such delights and miss the last train back to the mainland, you then have a choice of a US$200 taxi ride or a night at one of the on-site hotels. At one time, the Tokyo authorities tried to force airlines to use this outpost (whose landing fees are higher than New York's JFK) by denying them access to Tokyo's Narita. However, several airlines decided that it was better to abandon Japan rather than risk losing their planes beneath the waves of Osaka Bay. For devout bargain hunters, it is possible to save money by flying from Kansai rather than Narita, but as I am not too keen on swimming, I think I might stay with Narita for the time being!

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With the anniversary of the dreadful attack on the World Trade Centre having filled the newspapers worldwide so recently, many people have been thinking about terrorism and their preparedness for such an attack. Surprisingly, this has included some Japanese, normally a race imbued with the 'it can't happen here' mentality. However, thinking about it doesn't mean Japan is in any way prepared for it. A recent survey by Veritas Software Corp, an American computer data protection firm, revealed that 61% of Japanese business executives feel their companies are behind in protecting their computer systems from such potential disasters as terror attacks and earthquakes. What's more, 6% felt that Japan was "extremely behind." The survey didn't reveal how many were planning to rectify this situation, but I wouldn't expect that figure to be very high. Tokyo may well be the earthquake capital of the world, and another 'Great Kanto Earthquake' may well be overdue, but that doesn't mean that Japanese companies have contingency plans or anything like that. Many of the firms whose offices were hit back on September 11 were up and running again remarkably quickly, due to sensible precautions. However, were such an attack or another giant quake to strike Tokyo's business district, it might well be years before any real recovery. Many Japanese executives have only just mastered the computer keyboard, so it's a bit early to expect them to have mastered computer backups!

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Just before this page went online, it was announced that Japan had executed 40-year-old Mamoru Takuma, who had been convicted of killing 8 school children and injuring 13 more plus two teachers at an elementary school near Osaka in 2001. As Japan is sensible enough to retain the death penalty for certain murders, the only remarkable thing about this news was the speed with which the sentence was carried out. Instead of languishing on death row for years, he was executed less than a year after his death sentence was finalised. It is rare for an execution to be carried out within 4 years after the death sentence is passed. One reason for the swift conclusion was that Takuma-san, who had said he wanted to pay for the crime with his life, had ordered his lawyers to withdraw their appeal. He didn't die alone, as Sueo Shimazaki, a 59-year-old former gang leader sentenced to death for killing 3 other gangsters in 1988, was hanged on the same day. Japan carries out several executions a year, usually when parliament is not in session or in December, when the nation is winding down for the New Year holidays. The last such hanging took place on September 12, 2003. Now this event was carried with the usual critical footnotes by the Western media, who think that just because they let killers walk the streets, everyone should. However, opinion polls here show that Japanese people strongly support the death penalty -- not that public opinion deters the anti-hanging softies overseas! There is one aspect of Japanese executions with which I disagree, and that is the way in which 'executees' and their relatives are not told of the impending execution until the day it takes place. However, that rather cruel factor aside, I can't help comparing Japan's ultra-safe streets with those of cities where executions are a thing of the past. Now I won't get biblical with the usual 'eye for an eye' argument, but I will say two things: firstly, if an unthinking dog kills someone, we kill it, but prefer not to kill someone who is supposed to be higher up the evolutionary ladder; secondly, I would like to quote the French novelist Alphonse Karr, who said "Si l'on veut abolir la peine de mort en ce cas, que MM. les assassins commencent." (If we are to abolish the death penalty, I should like to see the first step taken by my friends the murderers.")

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Gaijin's Tip:

'It isn't that difficult to stay healthy over here. You can easily find a bi-lingual doctor (in Tokyo) by visiting the 'Tokyo Metropolitan Health and Medical Information Center' at  http://www.himawari.metro.tokyo.jp/qq/qq13enmnlt.asp. For free medical Info, call 03-5285-8181 on weekdays between 9am and 5pm (in English, Chinese, Korean and Spanish). Oh, and don't forget that if you're over 45, you're entitled to a free annual medical check-up, provided by your local Ward office.'
(For more like this, please visit the 'Gaijin's Guide to Living in Japan')

'At time of writing, there is one of the regular Sumo 'basho or tournaments taking place in Tokyo. If you'd like to know more about this ancient sport, why not visit a Sumo 'Stable' and watch 'Sumotori' practising, free. Choose from more than a dozen stables in the Sumida area. Call 3625-5111 for dates and times.'

(For more suggestions, check out the 'Gaijin's Guide to Enjoying Tokyo')

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2002

2003

2004

And so, with the late summer sun bathing the city outside my window, and with me enduring the misery of a damn'd summer Cold, we put another 'Empty Seat' to bed. Talking of illness, a friend of mine's wife recently had the misfortune to suffer a case of Post-Natal Depression', a very unpleasant but far from rare disorder. However, although Japan often seems like it needs psychiatrists more than most, there are remarkably few here. Now we don't want them coming out of the woodwork as they do in some places across the Pacific (no names, no pack-drill), but it shouldn't be so difficult nor so 'shameful' to seek psychiatric help. And that was in Tokyo -- I hate to think about how things are in the provinces! Anyway, I feel another sneeze coming on, so I shall love you and leave till the same time next month -- pop back, why don't you?

The Gaijin

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* Regular travellers on Japan's buses and trains know that the seat next to a foreigner will
 usually remain empty, even during the rush hours. This can rankle at first but should really be seen as a relief in a place where space is hard to find. It is also amusing to see a tired 'salaryman' torn between sitting next to a foreigner or remaining on his feet!


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